Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and Victorian Festival of
Christmas
We needed to wrap up warmly for our chilly winter 2008
trip to step back in time and celebrate Christmas Victorian style at
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard in Hampshire. The visit also gave us
an opportunity to climb aboard Lord Nelson's Flagship, HMS Victory,
plus HMS Warrior as well as view the preserved Mary Rose.
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At Portsmouth Historic Dockyard Vice Admiral Lord Nelson's Flagship HMS
Victory, launched in 1765, has been preserved in dry dock at the
sprawling naval base and open to visitors.
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Here on HMS Victory's cramped middle gun deck there were plenty
of big guns to heave to. The ship's crew contained over 800 men
all living, eating and sleeping on the gun decks.
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On the upper deck we looked up at Victory's amazing rigging. We
bet the sailors had a few choice words when they got the ropes in a
twist - like 'frigging rigging' perhaps? Later, we viewed Victory's
tatty fore topsail, on display at Trafalgar Sail.
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HMS Victory's steering wheel is located under the poop deck and
operates the rudder via a system of ropes. There was no power
steering in the olden days so it needed up to eight strong men to steer
Victory in rough seas. Heave to!
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The great cabin seemed very spacious and plush and was the place where
Admiral Nelson hatched his famous battle plan for the Battle of
Trafalgar in 1805 which is a defining historical moment.
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The lady here is pondering over the brass plaque where Nelson
fell on Victory's quarter deck during the Battle of Trafalgar when he
was mortally wounded by a French sharpshooter aboard 'Redoutable'.
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It doesn't look like there's room to swing a cat in HMS Victory's
Galley. In any case it should be chasing the mouse to the
left! The sailors got a tot of Rum each day - the 'splicing the
main brace' (or should that be 'all heave too' if they got too much in
rough seas!).
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Hmmm, just look at those three levels of guns! HMS Victory
certainly meant business in 1805 at the Battle of Trafalgar!
Admiral Lord Nelson was Britain's greatest Naval hero, despite losing
an arm and the sight of one eye in previous battles. What a hero!
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There's always one! Mike posing at the stern end of HMS
Victory as we headed over to the Royal Naval Museum.
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Now it's Belinda's turn to pose as she shakes Vice Admiral Lord Horatio
Nelson's hand in the Royal Naval Museum.
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At the Victorian Festival of Christmas at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
we enjoyed the Fort Cumberland Guard who also performed a noisy musket
firing at Warrior slipway. Don't forget to visit our extensive tourist resources page for related
websites to our visits.
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The Festival had many Victorian characters dressed the part in
their costumes.
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We think this must be a Victorian inventor trying out his powered bath
chair. It'll never catch on mate!
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Now, this grubby chap is the chimney sweep who's job it was to
climb up peoples' chimneys and clean all the soot out. No health
and safety worries in Victorian times then! But at least he had
'green' transport even if the chimneys he serviced were far from green!
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Ooo er - watch out Mike, this Victorian policeman might press gang you
into serving in the Navy! Hang on, it's OK, he's after that
scoundrel Fagin.
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Another bit of 'street theatre' we came across at Portsmouth's
Victorian Festival of Christmas was the enchanting Mrs Lovett's Pies
performance.
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These Victorian urchins at the Christmas Festival must have been the
chimney sweep's apprentices, seen here performing their energetic dance
routine to Chim-chimmany.
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The Victorian Festival of Christmas at Portsmouth Historic
Dockyard was enthralling, some of the characters were just going about
everyday Victorian business.
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This is the Mary Rose, Henry VIII's favourite warship from the early
1500s. It's undergoing an 'active conservation process' to
prevent it disintegrating and we were being constantly herded forward
by a jobsworth as soon as we entered the area!
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The Mary Rose Museum gave us an alluring insight into Navy warfare
during the 14th century and contained many recovered military objects
from the warship. The picture here shows Belinda looking at a
heavy gun used on the ship which carried both cast bronze guns as well
as older wrought iron guns. There were also live 'hand on'
exhibits and educational demonstrations in the museum.
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HMS Warrior of 1860 was the world's largest and most heavily armed
warship of her time and was our final visit at Portsmouth Historic
Dockyard. Portsmouth's Spinnaker Tower can be seen to the left.
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Down below decks things seemed much more spacious since Nelson's
day, despite the guns being larger. HMS Warrior was constructed
of wrought iron and was steam powered as well as sail.
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The Wheelhouse was also larger and had four wheels, requiring eight
sailors to heave to. One thought - how did they see which way to
steer Warrior with the wheel below decks? Erm, back to the
drawing board lads, we didn't think of that one!
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Again the Admiral's quarters were rather luxurious on HMS Warrior
compared to what the sailors had to endure. They ate, slept and
worked around the guns. HMS Warrior never fired a gun in anger,
but helped to keep the peace.
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As we returned to HMS Warrior's deck with the weak November daylight
fading fast, we caught the moment the colourful searchlights flashed
across the mast.
Most of our Portsmouth Historic Dockyard photos were taken with our new
digital
camera which we've reviewed.
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Even if the Victorian Festival of Christmas was
excluded we found plenty to see and do at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
in Hampshire, in fact we didn't even get round half of it.
Visiting Nelson's Flagship HMS Victory gave us a
fascinating insight into Navy life during the early 19th century, and
it was interesting to compare the changes by 1860 on HMS Warrior.
The Mary Rose was intriguing to observe too, even if it was behind a
mist of preserving spray!
See our UK tourist
links for related websites and further information on Portsmouth
Historic Dockyard, the warships and the Victorian Festival of Christmas.
Oh, we've also been across the solent to visit Osborne House on the Isle of
Wight.
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