Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and Victorian Festival of
Christmas
We needed to wrap up warmly for our chilly winter 2008
trip to step back in time and celebrate Christmas Victorian style at
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard in Hampshire. The visit also gave us
an opportunity to climb aboard Lord Nelson's Flagship, HMS Victory,
plus HMS Warrior as well as view the preserved Mary Rose.
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Vice Admiral Lord Nelson's Flagship HMS Victory was launched in 1765
and is now a visitor attraction preserved in dry dock at Portsmouth
Historic Dockyard, part of the sprawling naval base there.
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Here on HMS Victory's cramped middle gun deck there were plenty of big
guns to heave to. The warship's crew comprised over 800 men all
living, eating and sleeping on the gun decks.
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On the upper deck we looked up at Victory's amazing rigging. We
figured the sailors had a few choice words when they got the ropes in a
twist - like 'frigging rigging' perhaps? Later, we viewed
Victory's by now rather tatty fore topsail, displayed at Trafalgar Sail.
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HMS Victory's steering wheel is located under the poop deck and
operated the rudder via a system of ropes. There was no power
steering in the olden days so it needed up to eight strong men to steer
Victory in rough seas. Heave to!
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The great cabin looked very spacious and plush and it was here Admiral
Nelson hatched his famous battle plan for the Battle of Trafalgar in
1805, a defining moment in history indeed. Back on Victory's...
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...quarter deck the lady here was pondering over the brass plaque
marking the spot where Nelson fell during the Battle of Trafalgar when
he was mortally wounded by a French sharpshooter aboard 'Redoutable'.
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It didn't look like there was room to swing a cat in HMS Victory's
Galley. In any case it should be chasing the mouse on the
left! The sailors got a tot of Rum each day - the 'splicing the
main brace' (or should that be 'all heave too' if they got too much in
rough seas!).
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Hmmm, just look at those three levels of guns! HMS Victory
certainly meant business in 1805 at the Battle of Trafalgar.
Admiral Lord Nelson was Britain's greatest Naval hero, despite losing
an arm and the sight of one eye in previous battles. What a hero!
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Mike paused for a pic at the stern end of HMS Victory as we headed over
to the Royal Naval Museum at the majestic Portsmouth dockyard.
Then it was...
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...Belinda's turn to pose as she shook Vice Admiral Lord Horatio
Nelson's hand in the fascinating Royal Naval Museum. Next we
moved on to...
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...the wonderful Victorian Festival of Christmas at Portsmouth Historic
Dockyard and enjoyed the Fort Cumberland Guard who also performed a
noisy musket firing at the Warrior slipway. Clearly a lot of
planning and effort had gone into the festival.
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The festival had many Victorian characters dressed the part in their
period costumes.
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We think this must be a Victorian inventor trying out his powered bath
chair. It'll never catch on mate!
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Now, this grubby chap was the chimney sweep who's job it was to climb
up peoples' chimneys and clean all the soot out. No health and
safety worries in Victorian times then! But at least he had
'green' transport even if the chimneys he serviced were far from green!
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Oo-er - watch out Mike, this Victorian policeman might press gang you
into serving in the Navy! Hang on... it's OK, he's after that
scoundrel Fagin.
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Another bit of 'street theatre' we came across at Portsmouth's
Victorian Festival of Christmas was the enchanting Mrs Lovett's Pies
performance.
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These Victorian urchins at the Christmas Festival must have been the
chimney sweep's apprentices, seen here performing their energetic dance
routine to Chim-chimmany at the dockyard.
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The Victorian Festival of Christmas at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
sure was enthralling; here's some of the characters mingling among the
visitors and just going about everyday Victorian business.
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Now the Mary Rose, Henry VIII's favourite warship from the early
1500s. It was undergoing an 'active conservation process' to
prevent it disintegrating, and annoyingly we were being constantly
herded forward by a jobsworth as soon as we entered the museum!
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The Mary Rose Museum gave us an alluring insight into Navy warfare
during the 14th century and contained many recovered military artefacts
from the warship. Here we looked at a heavy gun used on the ship,
which carried both cast bronze guns as well as older wrought iron
guns. There were also live 'hands on' exhibits and educational
demonstrations in this wondrous museum at the Historic Dockyard.
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HMS Warrior of 1860 was the world's largest and most heavily armed
warship of her time and was our final visit at Portsmouth Historic
Dockyard. To the left is Portsmouth's Spinnaker Tower.
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Down below decks things seemed much more spacious since Nelson's day,
despite the guns being larger. HMS Warrior was constructed of
wrought iron and was steam powered as well as sail.
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The Wheelhouse was also larger and had four wheels, requiring eight
sailors to heave to. One thought - how did they see which way to
steer Warrior with the wheel below decks? Erm, back to the
drawing board lads, we didn't think of that one!
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Like on Victory, the Admiral's quarters were rather luxurious on HMS
Warrior compared to what the sailors had to endure. They ate,
slept and worked around the guns. HMS Warrior never fired a gun
in anger, but helped to keep the peace.
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As we returned to HMS Warrior's deck with the weak November daylight
fading fast, we caught the moment the colourful searchlights flashed
across the mast.
Most of our Portsmouth Historic Dockyard photos were taken with our new
digital camera
which we've reviewed.
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Even if the marvellous Victorian Festival of Christmas
was excluded we found plenty to see and do at Portsmouth Historic
Dockyard in Hampshire; in fact we didn't even get to see half of it.
Visiting Nelson's Flagship HMS Victory provided a
fascinating insight into Navy life during the early 19th century, and
it was interesting to compare the changes by 1860 on HMS Warrior.
The Mary Rose was intriguing to observe too, even if it was behind a
mist of preserving spray!
See our UK tourist
resources for related websites and further information on
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard, the warships, and the Victorian Festival
of Christmas.
Oh, we've also been across the Solent to visit Osborne House on the Isle of
Wight.
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